View Full Version : Help with part identification please
Hey guys,
Can someone help me out with the following circled parts.
This is how my car has been left after mechanic friend installed blowthru setup. These lines have been left as is and the car runs like shit, like when it had the vacuum leaks before. I'm trying to narrow down the issue and stuff that's unplugged is my first place to start.
Thanks!
Note that in the photo one of the black tubes is still there from deleting the carbon canister at the front.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs102.ash2/38450_420477387152_506767152_4681844_5368197_n.jpg
piece on the left is factory boost control solenoid. disconnecting it will make you run 6psi. you have to have the lines it was attached to capped or they will be vacumm leaks (lines came from wastegates).
piece on the right is egr valve, i dont know the effects of having the lines disconnected.
surreal
07-12-10, 06:18 PM
you can just block/remove the egr
you probably have a mbc/ebc so you dont need the boost solenoid
with blow through, vac leaks only matter if they are after the air meter (at least in terms of how it runs; youll still lose power with boost leaks)
what are you using for blow thru? it might just be a settings issue. if youre on stock fuel, make sure your air meter/controller is zero'd out.
I have the egr block off plates in the mail coming this week hopefully.
I am running the blitz SBC-ID boost controller so the lines from the wastegates i believe are running to the blitz boost solenoid if i'm not mistaken [was installed on the car when i purchased] - Sureal i think the above is what you are talking about with no longer needing to worry about the part on the left? can i now leave it as is. I know the EBC is working as it was with the stock drawthru and i havn't touched anything with the EBC/it's engine lines/wiring etc.
Blowthru setup as well as entire car's aftermarket parts listing- i will start at filters inward
KN filters
Dejon pre-turbo pipes
Stock turbos/wg
DSM sidemount intercoolers [thicker than stock]
stock pipes up to the y-pipe
dejon 2 piece y-pipe
GM 3.5" Mas
HKS SSQV with the dejon HKS flange so the BOV is welded directly to the y-pipe
Upgraded spark wires - correctly placed. made sure to double check today while we were doing the rear plugs
Just replaced plugs today with NGK Iridiums - all 6
Stock fuel - have walbro ready to go in
Custom stainless downpipe
High flow cat
Custom 3.5" stainless exhaust all the way back
Electronics-
Blitz SBC-ID
Apexi turbo timer
AEM UEGO Wideband - sensor installed just after the two exhaust pipes meet in the downpipe.
MAF-T V.2.******
That should be what is running.
Set the MAFT for 360 injectors for 3/s as the manual said. Left everything else [idle/mid/wot] settings at 0 so no adjustment. I have the dip switches 1 and 2 set for the 3.5" mas. dip switch 3 on for startup fuel enrichment and 4 set to off for MAF tuning mode as told by instructions. 4 set on is rpm mode which is used for finer increment tuning if understood correctly
Car sputters a low almost muscle car'ish sound, the exact same as when i had a leak with my draw thru setup in the stock y-pipe right before the throttle body. exact same sound, same super lean reading on the wideband [completely on the red side reading 17.** then just going to --.-- on the gauge center] Also get CEL after a couple seconds of running like crap.
This is after initial fire up that sounds proper but only lasts maybe 5-10 seconds before crapping out.
1) If you can confirm that leaving the stock boost solenoid as it is as seen on the left in picture is fine?
2) If i do not delete the EGR are those two pipes on the right effecting me/causing this issue. If so where are they routed to?
3) If i do the EGR delete with the plates they remove that entire piece on the right of the photo correct? so i won't even have those pipes on the right.
4) Sureal re:"if youre on stock fuel, make sure your air meter/controller is zero'd out." Do you mean leave the translator like i have it with no adjustment but setup for 360 injectors on 3/s?
Thanks SOOOO much guys you have no idea how much this helps.
Caleb
surreal
07-12-10, 10:39 PM
1) If you can confirm that leaving the stock boost solenoid as it is as seen on the left in picture is fine?
yeah there are no lines going to it so it wont be leaking or anything.
confirm that the other solenoid goes to your fpr.
the wg actuators should have vac lines that tee together and go to your ebc solenoid. the other line going to the solenoid should be either coming off your plenum or your ypipe (probably ypipe)
ive never used the blitz ebc but i think it has a pressure sensor as well, right? (displays boost like a boost gauge)
are you getting the appropriate vac at idle?
2) If i do not delete the EGR are those two pipes on the right effecting me/causing this issue. If so where are they routed to?
should default closed so youre good
3) If i do the EGR delete with the plates they remove that entire piece on the right of the photo correct? so i won't even have those pipes on the right.
yup. it removes that whole piece as well as the metal accordion type tube coming from the rear precat up to the back of the plenum.
4) Sureal re:"if youre on stock fuel, make sure your air meter/controller is zero'd out." Do you mean leave the translator like i have it with no adjustment but setup for 360 injectors on 3/s?
yep just ensure that your maft has all the stock settings and no adjustment. it should then just translate the maf output into the corresponding mas output with no adjustment. the idea is that your ecu shouldnt know the difference if its working properly...
-----
im assuming you are 1g? (otherwise dont think you can just delete egr without a cel)
original ecu? caps replaced?
do you have a logger? what cel is coming up?
iirc the aem wb does not require calibration, correct? youre still running stock nbo2s though as well, right?
car ran fine before you went blowthru, right?
howd the plugs look when you pulled them?
confirm that youre getting spark to all cyl?
confirm that your fpr (gold thingy on the end of your fuel rail) is hooked up properly.
confirm that the other solenoid goes to your fpr.
ive never used the blitz ebc but i think it has a pressure sensor as well, right? (displays boost like a boost gauge)
are you getting the appropriate vac at idle?
boost gauge is working great, did before as well. Ya it displays much like a boost gauge showing peak and current. also have a dedicated boost gauge too which it always shares the same reading
unsure about the
confirm that the other solenoid goes to your fpr
sorry don't understand
Quote:
2) If i do not delete the EGR are those two pipes on the right effecting me/causing this issue. If so where are they routed to?
should default closed so youre good so i can just leave them be as is?
yep just ensure that your maft has all the stock settings and no adjustment. it should then just translate the maf output into the corresponding mas output with no adjustment. the idea is that your ecu shouldnt know the difference if its working properly... Less work, good to hear. the above is what i've done only so that's nice to know.
-----
im assuming you are 1g? (otherwise dont think you can just delete egr without a cel) yep 92'
original ecu? caps replaced? origional, havn't checked caps but car hasn't given any issue at all up until now so i can't say it doesn't have a bad cap but i assume i would have seen something so far
do you have a logger? what cel is coming up? yes, but can't get it to sync up with the car. driving me nuts but doing some reading tommorow on it.
iirc the aem wb does not require calibration, correct? youre still running stock nbo2s though as well, right? no calibration i've heard of, nor have several friends who run as well so should be ok. stock o2 sensors i did not replace them with wideband, i welded a new bung in. [well brother in law did :D]
car ran fine before you went blowthru, right? yes, minor vac issues but nothing really noticeable.
howd the plugs look when you pulled them? black - best way to put it.
confirm that youre getting spark to all cyl? can't because i personally don't know how. the fact that it starts up running nicely then goes to crap i assume it is ok or would be terrible upon start up but i can't say
confirm that your fpr (gold thingy on the end of your fuel rail) is hooked up properly. will double check in the morning before work.
i'll see what answers i can get for the unanswered above. I found 3 leaks in the vac lines that run downward from the vac line cluster beside the throttle body.
i'll update with pictures to show what i did to fix and give a better idea of what's going on.
thanks yet again
surreal
07-12-10, 11:34 PM
sounds good
so you have good vac at idle then...?
otherwise pressure test from the maf forward if possible to make sure you dont have any leaks.
to check for spark, pull off a plug wire with the car running and stick a screwdriver into the end that normally attaches to the plug. (make sure this is an insulated handle screwdriver! haha) then hold the screwdriver shaft next to a metal piece of the car like the vc. you should see it arc to the metal. actually its usually strong enough that you may not even need the screwdriver; just hold the wire end next to a ground.
you can also buy an attachment that goes between the plug and the wire that will show you spark. only a couple bucks if youre not comfortable with the screwdriver method.
you can leave the egr stuff as is for now.
you really need to get that logger working so that you can pull the code and shut off individual injectors etc. im assuming you have reset the ecu (disconnect the batt, pump brakes and wait) and car does the same thing and cel comes back immediately?
when you find the fpr (its between your ypipe and the plenum stuck on the end of the fuel rail), it will have a single nipple off the top with a vac line attached. let me know where this vac line goes. if it goes to a solenoid with 2 nipples, trace the other vac line as well and let us know where it ends up.
good luck dude :)
no update for today - sorry fellas i just had a looonnnggg day and no time to check out the car. I did buy a compressor to make things muuuchhhhh easier though so looking forward to tommorow. i'll have answers [and i'm sure more questions] tommorow.
"so you have good vac at idle then...?"
Sorry, i did before the blow thru setup and really havn't looked after as the car sounded like crap so didn't think to.
otherwise pressure test from the maf forward if possible to make sure you dont have any leaks.
all setup, new compressor so i can maintain pressure while looking and will get back to this point tonight
Below are photos of the FPR vac line trace
Here is the FPR [i hope lol] you can see the line i traced just barely at the top of the fpr
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs097.ash2/38184_421072592152_506767152_4694583_1463444_n.jpg
The blue one my finger is on is it, where it attaches to the rest of the vac lines http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs177.snc4/38184_421072602152_506767152_4694584_7885584_n.jpg
Here you can see the blue dotted line in the bottom right, which loops into the piece my finger is on. Then comes out the rear end and the line is then joined by two other lines which i assume are my boost controller vac lines? http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs197.snc4/38184_421072607152_506767152_4694585_7593686_n.jpg
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs097.ash2/38184_421072612152_506767152_4694586_4978449_n.jpg
Onward to here
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs183.snc4/37512_421072677152_506767152_4694587_7074054_n.jpg
Then into the back of the crankcase
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs163.snc4/37512_421072682152_506767152_4694588_4526255_n.jpg
Here is where i found the first leaks. Friend had put in these black plastic ribbed stoppers that had a spine down them so not sure how they could work. I pulled the 3, looped the one vac line into the other [which i thought would work the same as blocking. Then blocked the third. Should i just block them all or can i leave it looped? Yes i will get a better blocker than a screw for the third, just using what i have at the moment.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs197.snc4/38184_421072587152_506767152_4694582_6455957_n.jpg
going out to attempt pressure test now @10 psi going in.
Leak test #1
Found leaks instantly.
1) The one EGR nipple is leaking. This may be because i am just using a pressure tester before the throttle body and the engine being on does something to stop it from pushing air out?
It's the golden nossle in my first picture.
2) where the boost controller solenoid goes into the y pipe just before the throttle body but after maf was leaking a decent amount. I'm sealing that up at the moment then going in for a second attempt. Couldn't hear anything else leaking but we shall see.
Was hoping for an answer to #1 before the sealer dries which i will leave intil later tonight so i know it's good and dry. i can just as easily seal it too with hose and a plug if need be.
surreal
07-14-10, 04:56 PM
you can delete all those hardlines on top of the tb if ya want since most are no longer used after vac reduction.
so looks like the fpr goes to a solenoid and the solenoid goes to the plenum, right?
those blocked off hardlines... where do they go/come from?
strange that the egr is leaking that way. should just be a valve to open the port in the manifold. you can just cap it though until your plates arrive or just hook it back up for now.
any luck with the logger?
you can delete all those hardlines on top of the tb if ya want since most are no longer used after vac reduction.
will leave and do next, i'll probably screw it up lol
so looks like the fpr goes to a solenoid and the solenoid goes to the plenum, right?
correct, FPR to the solenoid that is to the left of the stock boost solenoid then to the back of the plenum
those blocked off hardlines... where do they go/come from?
not sure, time for me to do some researching -i'll update if i find anything
strange that the egr is leaking that way. should just be a valve to open the port in the manifold. you can just cap it though until your plates arrive or just hook it back up for now.
ok sounds good
any luck with the logger?
found out that there is a registration process that needs to be done on the logger that the previous owner didn't do. he has the confirmation email for the software still that has this registration key number. will call him tommorow and i have very high hopes!!!!!
Ok judging by this http://i591.photobucket.com/albums/ss357/vr4tune/vac_reduction.jpg
One goes to the wastegate [which is now one of the blue hoses going to the boost solenoid is my understanding?
the other two look like they go to the purge control valve which i'm thinking is associated with the charcoal canister which i have deleted so they are useless.
anyone confirm this?
surreal
07-14-10, 07:54 PM
sorry dude meant maybe you could trace them back to see where they are coming from since many of your lines have possibly been redone.
if theyre all just going back to the plenum, you can just get rid of them and cap the source. if they are leaking, they cannot come from your wg (those should be teed into your blitz solenoid anyway). iirc the front wg uses a hardline that runs back along by the tstat and then tees up with the rear wg line.
Any recommendation for blocking off these three hoses coming out of the plenum for the egr and evap emmision solenoids? just leave some tubing and cap like normal?
I did a lot more looking and completely understand the upper vac system now. I remove all the lines except the FPR loop as it has nothing to do with the rest of the vac lines. Also leave the one to the plenum from the bov. Just need to put the egr plates on and figure out the proper way to do the first question in the post, capping the three lines in pic with x's
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs174.snc4/38023_421390497152_506767152_4701821_2913392_n.jpg
Oh and i was curious. The knob that is on the fpr solenoid that turns [i didn't adjust, i left it alone]. What is it's purpose?
surreal
07-15-10, 01:21 PM
i removed my fpr solenoid with the vac reduction. i dont believe that knob thing does anything though.
i just capped and sealed those three nipples above the tb. i have seen people completely remove and seal them though which is on my to-do list (albeit towards the bottom!).
Gah, so frustrating.
Got everything done, vac reductions, pressure test, double checked all clamps on the y-pipe. wideband in and working. datalogger all fixed up and working.
Start the car, runs beautiful. Get out to admire my work and after about 45 seconds. goes to shit. wideband show 16.- to 17.- in the red. CEL comes on and car sputters like a muscle car yet again........
Should have bought a motorcycle lol :(
Sooooo why waste time, i got right back at er'
removed egr with the plates coming in.
I had seen two of these lines [the ones in rubber] but hadn't noticed the third
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs040.ash2/35354_422109802152_506767152_4718698_4557482_n.jpg
Please confirm that 1) the two with rubber are from the evap emmision and because it is gone they are doing nothing wrong just sitting like that.
2) what is the bare line?
All three lines are just behind the plenum above the rear turbo intake pipe..
surreal
07-17-10, 03:22 PM
Gah, so frustrating.
Got everything done, vac reductions, pressure test, double checked all clamps on the y-pipe. wideband in and working. datalogger all fixed up and working.
Start the car, runs beautiful. Get out to admire my work and after about 45 seconds. goes to shit. wideband show 16.- to 17.- in the red. CEL comes on and car sputters like a muscle car yet again........
Should have bought a motorcycle lol :(
if you pressure tested and those lines werent leaking then youre probably ok in that regard. the fact that the car initially runs fines seems to imply that its not just a vac issue.
btw my car did the exact same thing (ran great for ~30 sec and then sputtered and eventually died) when my ecu caps went. it was killing the coil pack.
if you immediately try to restart the car after if starts sputtering, does it run ok? or do you need to wait a minute before it will restart properly?
what cel is coming up? if its throwing a code and then running like crap, lets see what the code is. wonder if its the cas or ptu or something.
i'll check, forgot to check which code it was on the logger.
Yes after shutting down from sputtering and starting again it will continue to sputter.
I recently read that the ecu's in the 1st gens are netorious for leaky caps.
I will wait until egr caps are on, i am going to cap that third line too.
I have all the egr off now awaiting plates so i will respond again whenever they are in, i was hoping they'd be here by friday but wasn't that lucky
K, snapped some ECU photos.
C104 is my only suspect. Glad you have a history of knowing what to look for
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs132.snc4/36954_422154487152_506767152_4720145_3260305_n.jpg
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs072.ash2/36954_422154492152_506767152_4720146_2380252_n.jpg
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs072.ash2/36954_422154497152_506767152_4720147_1801090_n.jpg
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs068.snc4/34772_422154542152_506767152_4720148_2434612_n.jpg
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs048.snc4/34772_422154547152_506767152_4720149_1321317_n.jpg
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs048.snc4/34772_422154552152_506767152_4720150_7584120_n.jpg
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs038.ash2/35269_422154597152_506767152_4720151_3620020_n.jpg
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs038.ash2/35269_422154602152_506767152_4720152_7219815_n.jpg
If the caps appear to have a brown top, they do not. it must be the lighting. i took in a room with good white light and they are silver with no tint
surreal
07-17-10, 07:12 PM
yeah that cap looks like its probably in worse shape than mine was. on my board you couldnt even see that they were leaking until they were removed and you could see underneath. only knew it was the ecu because i had tested/swapped everything else and a local member was able to let me borrow their ecu to test it (thanks tim!)
how did the ecu smell?
once the car starts to run rough, if you turn it off for like 2 minutes and restart it, does it run fine again for 30 seconds?
you dont happen to have a spare ecu to toss in and test do ya?
on the plus side, now is the perfect time to replace the caps if youre waiting for the egr plates anyway. costs like 20 bucks for parts+labour and should take under an hour.
or if you do them yourself it costs maybe 2 bucks for parts haha.
good buddy repairs computer motherboards and sold me the car lol. sure he'll do for me
Should i just replace that one?
No smell, hint of what the inside of my car smells like
No spare ecu :*( Anyone near by with one??
Agree with you on replacing while it's down, very much a pre-problem fixing person, especially on notorious bits.
surreal
07-17-10, 08:50 PM
yep one of those things that should be replaced anyway imo
just give your buddy this link (http://www.3si.org/wiki/index.php/How_to_Replace_the_Capacitors_in_a_1G_ECU%3F)
btw any luck pulling that code or checking for spark?
havn't attempted yet on the code/spark. i took the egr off and one of the bolts was stripped so didn't want to put it back on, whoever did it last didn't have it siliconed either which could be a prop or not but oh well.
Hoping the plates are in this week, then i can really get down to figuring this out.
The crank case vent that normally routes back into the intake bubble. I have seen many put a kn tiny filter on it so i have done this too. Can this cause issue?
where'd you buy your caps too, says radioshack won't have..... trying to think of local electronic stores....
Woohoo, awesome day today
1) prior owner informed me that he already did the caps when he noticed the discolouration in the photos. Was done 3000k ago.
2) EGR block off plates are in and will be on by tonight [all but 1 i think, i believe i need shorter bolts for the actual egr plate]
3) ashtray replacement/ cupholder came in from weevil on 3si. shouldn't take long to mod in.
Hope #2 solves my problem
If anyone can confirm what that third line [the one without rubber] is in post 18. I didn't even clue in to it being there when i pressurized the system. So i don't make a mistake when i say i pressure tested the system i did not do the proper thing. I used the intake bubble tool and checked for leaks is all. nothing major and could have missed things. Wanted to make that clear
surreal
07-19-10, 12:44 PM
where'd you buy your caps too, says radioshack won't have..... trying to think of local electronic stores....
just went to a mom n pop local tv repair shop
The crank case vent that normally routes back into the intake bubble. I have seen many put a kn tiny filter on it so i have done this too. Can this cause issue?
iirc there are 3 nipples on the valve covers. one off each bank by the cam gears and one off the front by the tstat. you can run a small filter off the vc or a catchcan. if you do this, you need to cap the opening on the intake (your no-mas intake pipes may have deleted this anyway), cap the lower plenum opening as well, and make sure that both covers are vented.
havn't attempted yet on the code/spark. i took the egr off and one of the bolts was stripped so didn't want to put it back on, whoever did it last didn't have it siliconed either which could be a prop or not but oh well.
was the bolt hole stripped? hopefully you can still get a good seal with the plates
surreal
07-19-10, 12:48 PM
If anyone can confirm what that third line [the one without rubber] is in post 18. I didn't even clue in to it being there when i pressurized the system. So i don't make a mistake when i say i pressure tested the system i did not do the proper thing. I used the intake bubble tool and checked for leaks is all. nothing major and could have missed things. Wanted to make that clear
youre not able to follow it back? youre sure its not the hardline for the front wg?
Could very well be from the wastegate. would make sense to route through that tube to the stock boost solenoid was my though. I coulnd't find a way to trace it back but will try again.
although today is a good day the brain isn't working. bolt isn't stripped just is very long going through the egr, i think it may just be too long of a bolt. we shall see.
I'm going to take a photo of the tiny filter i put on, i don't understand some of your response because of my lack of knowledge of where parts are that you are talking about.
surreal
07-19-10, 05:13 PM
sorry about that
to re-explain the mini-filter...
on the drivers side of the engine the front and rear valve covers have nipples. if you follow the front fuel rail, it will have a hardline on the drivers side that runs to the rear fuel rail. the nipples are right over in that area. they will have large hoses coming off of them.
the nipple on the passenger side of the engine comes off the valve cover by the other end of the front fuel rail (by the coilpacks where your spark plug wires all attach).
these 3 nipples will be the only hoses coming from the valve covers.
either way, even if the pcv system was messed up, it wouldnt prevent the car from running entirely.
as for the hardline, you could try attaching a vac line and blowing into it i guess haha. if its open, try blowing some smoke into it to see where it comes out?
otherwise was your ebc working properly before?
btw have you tried unplugging your maf and running the car?
Ok i know the lines you mean now, do they not all share the same pressure allowing me to vent just the one leaving the others connected? Oh and my intake pipes delete the nipple/hole for the tube that has been replaced by the filter. This is the part in question cap the lower plenum opening as well, and make sure that both covers are vented.
I am holding the filter, coming from just in front of TB - second is directly to the left of "V6" - third is in upper right corner?
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs063.snc4/34509_422864787152_506767152_4741158_4998052_n.jpg
I got adventurous and did the entire vac reduction. Those lines are gone now that i was asking about. They did in fact all run to the front turbo area for the stock wastegate line [which was gone, replaced by new ebc line] other 3 were from evap emmision. More knowledge.... less answers.... although i now know what those three do it does rule them out as any concern.
At least the checklist of stuff is being knocked off nicely :)
Tommorow entire vac system will be done better. EGR plates will be semi-on
Wednesday will be the big day for starting it again!!
surreal
07-19-10, 11:51 PM
sorry, there are actually 4 nipples; 2 per valve cover.
the two on the right of your pic i believe are joined by a large hose.
the one in the top left now has the little filter attached.
the last one is 6" to the left of the "V6" lettering and right above your plug wires. it has a hose running off of it and down under the plenum. iirc it connects to the lower plenum. when the engine sees vacuum, it opens the valve on that hose and sucks the air out of the valve covers. technically, with your current setup, it will be sucking in unmetered air (aka boost leak) when the engine is in vacuum (so a boost leak test wouldnt trigger it).
you can simply cap that line coming off the nipple to the left of the "V6" now.
good luck wed!
torn on what to do with the pcv......
options are
cap it as you've mentioned
or
remove pcv and replace with a barbed fitting -T it in to the line with the small filter - run the T'd line to an oil catch can and then to the filter......
i don't understand either way unfortunately.
your opinion
surreal
07-20-10, 03:11 PM
torn on what to do with the pcv......
options are
cap it as you've mentioned
or
remove pcv and replace with a barbed fitting -T it in to the line with the small filter - run the T'd line to an oil catch can and then to the filter......
i don't understand either way unfortunately.
your opinion
it actually all does the same thing. i have run both ways.
you can just cap the nipples on the left and run the catchcan/filter from the lines connecting the nipples on the right if you want.
the only pita of capping the nipple to the left of the "V6" is that you need to cap the nipple on the lower plenum as well (which is where that hose is going). youre gonna have to do this either way though really. this requires removal of the plenum. or you could just cap the hose which is much simpler (and what i originally did).
as for catchcan vs filter... both methods are just venting the valvecovers to atmosphere so they will both do the same thing. one way just vents directly through filter and the other passes the air through the catchcan first which is designed to help some of the oil get captured/accumulate.
Car all back together
Decided to go back draw through but still using all the same parts just not the dejon intakes. Using the same y-pipe, got the recirc fitting. Look great and i'm happy with what's been done.
Vac reduction i think was a great success. Mech. vac gauge is show 17-19vac when plugged into the rear plenum nipple that i have the boost gauge and boost controller controlling unit running to.
Running stock mas with brand new kn intake and stock intake pipes both have their spare nipples capped off
EGR delete
Evap emmision delete
Start the car.......
2-3 minutes of running good, no sweeping on the wideband though from lean to rich, i'm patient and waiting for it..........
CEL - Engine goes to shit...............
Check vacuum still holding 17-19
Get out logger - shows no CEL's on it's error screen which frustrates me. As i'm going through the logger i come upon the "temporary injector disengage" function. So i go through them. 1,2,4,5 Engine bogs extremely low and almost dies before the 5 second disengage automatically removes itself and the injector comes back on, engine returns to sputtering but not almost dying.
3 and 6 disabled independantly....... nothing, click them again.... nothing. Shut the car down. Make sure both plugs are tight, check wires make sure they are tight. Start car, bogs almost immediately. disengage 3, nothing changes, disengage 6 nothing changes. Replaced plug 3 with plug i know works and same thing happens [couldn't get at 6 tonight.
So i find that 3 and 6 both run to the same piece on the ignition coil assembly which i find too coincidental. Check the fittings and everything is tight.
Sorry for the bible, wanted to bring you up to date.
p.s. no catch can i have run the line back into the stock intake pipe just like on a stock setup. pcv is going to stock location as well. small filter removed entirely from system
Here is where i am............
surreal
07-24-10, 02:03 AM
Car all back together
Decided to go back draw through but still using all the same parts just not the dejon intakes. Using the same y-pipe, got the recirc fitting. Look great and i'm happy with what's been done.
Vac reduction i think was a great success. Mech. vac gauge is show 17-19vac when plugged into the rear plenum nipple that i have the boost gauge and boost controller controlling unit running to.
Running stock mas with brand new kn intake and stock intake pipes both have their spare nipples capped off
EGR delete
Evap emmision delete
Start the car.......
2-3 minutes of running good, no sweeping on the wideband though from lean to rich, i'm patient and waiting for it..........
CEL - Engine goes to shit...............
Check vacuum still holding 17-19
Get out logger - shows no CEL's on it's error screen which frustrates me. As i'm going through the logger i come upon the "temporary injector disengage" function. So i go through them. 1,2,4,5 Engine bogs extremely low and almost dies before the 5 second disengage automatically removes itself and the injector comes back on, engine returns to sputtering but not almost dying.
3 and 6 disabled independantly....... nothing, click them again.... nothing. Shut the car down. Make sure both plugs are tight, check wires make sure they are tight. Start car, bogs almost immediately. disengage 3, nothing changes, disengage 6 nothing changes. Replaced plug 3 with plug i know works and same thing happens [couldn't get at 6 tonight.
So i find that 3 and 6 both run to the same piece on the ignition coil assembly which i find too coincidental. Check the fittings and everything is tight.
Sorry for the bible, wanted to bring you up to date.
p.s. no catch can i have run the line back into the stock intake pipe just like on a stock setup. pcv is going to stock location as well. small filter removed entirely from system
Here is where i am............
nice job man! making good progress.
for the cels: try looking in stored codes on the logger. otherwise also could try unplugging batt (resetting ecu) and wait for cel to return when car is restarted.
you can swap the coils around to test them but its a pain. did you pull the plug wires and confirm no spark on 3+6?
do you have a multimeter? the ptu can be tested if you do.
we are assuming now that the ecu is good as well...
I'll try to find stored errors on it this morning.
Yes assuming ecu is ok, if he said he replaced the caps such a short period ago i'm ok with that.
Not sure how to do that coilpack swap
I do not have a multimeter nor do i know what ptu is unfortunately :( I can get one if needed though.
Plugs are not black at the tips and 3 is not getting spark, i was unable to get at 6 last night.
surreal
07-24-10, 06:24 PM
you dont really need to get to 6. just pop a plug wire onto the coil and test. either way, sounds like you have confirmed that that coil isnt firing.
the ptu is a just a little unit under the coilpack that tells it when to fire. its just attached with a couple bolts and has a wire harness plugged into it. very easy to test with a multimeter.
to swap the coils around, you literally just remove 2 of the coils and swap them :)
it would involve some minor soldering though i believe so it will depend if youre comfortable with that. simplest thing would be to try and borrow one to test.
either way, your simplest next step is probably to test the ptu.
Sounds good, brother in law knows what that means so he's going to help me tommorow morning.
if it is failed im going to the wreckers as there is a very nice condition 92 RT there that i can get it's full coil pack off of.
1 of two things after that. If it fixes it i will purchase a brand new coil pack from 3sx. option 2 is if that doesn't work either to continue on my search for the issue.
ugggzzzz.. we'll get there :D
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