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Old 07-28-14, 10:55 PM   #1
ChubbZ
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Rear turbo gone? Intake mani gaskets? Boost leak test video inside!

So after a solid 5-6 boost leak sessions and about 10 leaks on both the charge piping and intake piping later, I am stuck with this loud fella, I've used leak test solutions and haven't managed to find this guy yet, the boost controller is set for 13.5PSI but most of the time I can only reach 11PSI and if it does hit 13.5PSI it doesn't stay there for more than a few seconds.

Just wondering if this was a normal sound to hear coming from the rear turbo area during a boost leak test, also I'm not sure if it should constantly hold the regulated 20lbs I'm using to test it with but it takes about 3-4 minutes to drain a 180PSI air compressor.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mqC1...r08XnPAc-moTKw
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Old 07-30-14, 08:20 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChubbZ
So after a solid 5-6 boost leak sessions and about 10 leaks on both the charge piping and intake piping later, I am stuck with this loud fella, I've used leak test solutions and haven't managed to find this guy yet, the boost controller is set for 13.5PSI but most of the time I can only reach 11PSI and if it does hit 13.5PSI it doesn't stay there for more than a few seconds.

Just wondering if this was a normal sound to hear coming from the rear turbo area during a boost leak test, also I'm not sure if it should constantly hold the regulated 20lbs I'm using to test it with but it takes about 3-4 minutes to drain a 180PSI air compressor.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mqC1...r08XnPAc-moTKw
So it is holding 20psi by itself for 3-4 minutes?
Or it isn't holding any pressure? (looks like you hook up the air and cant get pressure)
Have you tried bumping the starter to change timing? Or does it do this every time you pressure test anyway?
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Old 07-31-14, 05:52 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by surreal
Have you tried bumping the starter to change timing?

At first I didn't understand, but you theorize the head valves aren't fully closed and is leaking through there, and the solution is to move the it (via starter). Now that I think about it, I remember hearing this same suggestion before.

Yes, that is an insane leak.

Also, I had a hard to find boost leak that only showed up after 12psi. One of my lower intercooler boost clamps would let go. Re-tighten that up, and it was all fixed.
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Old 07-31-14, 10:40 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by BlackStealth
At first I didn't understand, but you theorize the head valves aren't fully closed and is leaking through there, and the solution is to move the it (via starter). Now that I think about it, I remember hearing this same suggestion before.
Yeah it would explain why he is losing so much air, cannot find the leak externally, and the sound coming from the turbo (manifold) area.
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Old 07-31-14, 02:08 PM   #5
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It seems to happen every time I boost leak test, I'll try jumping the starter to see if theres a change otherwise I'm taking it to Vex performance to have a smoke test done. Im guessing if smoke comes out of the exhaust during the test it could be the valves?
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Old 07-31-14, 04:12 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChubbZ
It seems to happen every time I boost leak test, I'll try jumping the starter to see if theres a change otherwise I'm taking it to Vex performance to have a smoke test done. Im guessing if smoke comes out of the exhaust during the test it could be the valves?
Just stretch balloons over your muffler tips and see if they fill up while pressure testing

Seriously though, if it happens every time you test, the odds of the engine stopping with overlap every single time are very small (unless valves are bent/leaking).

You can try to isolate the leaking area by blocking off sections of piping though. For example, you can remove the plenum and engine etc from being pressurized by just blocking the throttlebody.

The easiest way I found to block off sections of piping to test them was to simply use a piece of heavy duty flexible plastic sheet/tarp/lining (even just a folded up HD garbage bag should work) and to clamp it down like you would a coupler on the end of the pipes. This will let you test specific sections of piping and help narrow down where the leak is coming from. Only takes 30 seconds to undo a coupler and isolate that piping section, but will save you a lot of time/effort when trying to track down sneaky leaks.
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